Altec 288-16K Diaphragm

[Barossi]

Hi,
i just received two 288-16K drivers with broken Diaphragm! What could i do? What is the best replacment part for use in hifi-systems?





There is a number on the diaphrahm: 18643 and 23834

Greetings Barossi

[MikeInNH]

I've fixed that kind of break before. It lasted several years before I finially bought new ones.

Get a small peice of wire to fill in the gap. Make a mechanical connection to secure in place. Then use some superglue. Worked for me. At the time I was too poor to just replace them.

[endeeinn]

This a the typical break. I've fixed them using a small size solder wick. First clean both ends of the break very carefully without creating further damage. I use a nail file or sharp blade to scrape the insulation down to bare copper. Use a soldering pen (so you don't over heat) and tin the cleaned areas on both sides of the break. Cut a 1" piece of solder wick and carefully tin just the tips of each end. Use as little solder as possible as you don't want it to 'wick' .. you only want to tin 1/8" or less. Once this is done just 'tack solder' one end of the tinned solder wick to one side of the break. Let everthing cool to the touch and then 'tack solder' the other end of the solder wick to the other side of the break. Be sure the two ends of the break are separated (bend them apart gently if necessary) and your done. You have an electrical connection and the thin flexible solder wick will let the diaphram do it's thing without hindering movement. Just be sure you don't wick solder up the solder wick to make it stiff. This fix will last forever.

[Barossi]

Hi,
thanks for your ideas! Sounds very good! I will try .....But if i need new diaphragms, should i buy the aluminiums from GPA? BTW which diaph. i have now?

Greetings Barossi

[dhook17322]

Before going to the trouble of the splice, check the resistance of the coil after you clean the lead ends to make sure it is not open or shorted. Removing the diaphragm and inspecting would also be wise as well as checking the gap to make sure it is clean and no filth is there to damage the coil. Hope the patch fixes the problem.

[Barossi]

Hi,

yes, it is probably better to spend money for new ones. But do i have to send them back to GPA or could i order new ones?

Greetings + tahnks to all!

Barossi

[Todd W. White]

Since your drivers are not made using an Alnico V magnet, you do not need to have them remagnetized. Alnico magnets need this once every few years.

Yes, you can go direct to GPA's website and order them from Bill. They will come with a set of instructions which, by the way, I produced for them. It's not in German, though....sorry.

Tell Bill I sent you.

[Barossi]

Hi Todd,
yes i will order the diaphr. from GPA. But i will wait, because i am waiting for a pair 291-16K, and i don't know if they need new diaphr. too. So i could spend shipping cost.
BTW: Here is the partnumber from GPA:
ALTEC LANSING 288-16H HF 23834 Aluminum 16 ohms Note 4, 5
ALTEC LANSING 288-8K HF 23763 Aluminum 8 ohms Note 3, 5
So for me it is clear, taht i will buy aluminium because i need more "HF output"! I probably buy 8 Ohm diaphr.

But see note 5:
NOTE 5 - ALL older Altec drivers must use a 288/291 or 800/900 Series Conversion Kit in order to be retrofitted with ANY Altec Lansing Diaphragm manufactured after 1983. Every Altec Lansing driver manufactured before 1983 will require one of these kits the first time a post-1983 diaphragm is installed in it



Old-style Diaphragm/Voice Coil Assembly for all Altec Lansing HF Compression Drivers manufactured prior to 1983. If yours looks like this, you must send it in to us to be re-fitted with new parts,
or you can buy a new style diaphragm and a conversion kit.

IMHO this means, that i have to send them to GPA, right?

Again, thanks a lot....

Greetings from Germany
Barossi

P.S.: The text and photos are from http://www.greatplainsaudio.com.

[Todd W. White]

Hello Barossi!

I don't know why your 288-K's have the older style diaphragms. Most of them have the later style...

At any rate, you only need to send the old ones in to GPA IF you want to retain the older style mounting rings.

Personally, I am convinced the new ones work better for many reasons, chiefly because they don't have the bend in the beryllium lead that fatigues and breaks (like yours did).

All you will need is the a diaphragm and leadwire kit for each driver you are ordering for.

[cclark65]

I have fixed them in the past also, scraping the insulation from the bottom side, and soldering them together. It went together as a right angle, with the solder forming a little triangular bracket underneath the intersection.

I did read somewhere that the leads might be beryllium, and if that is the case, then use some sort of ventilation while soldering, as beryllium is toxic. This might not be correct, but better be safe than sorry, but I don't think one time exposure would do much damage if any. If that's the case, then I have been damaged and don't know it or cannot tell!